Historical Draped and Tailored Garments

SCHOOL OF DRAPED GARMENTS

The "toga" was a traditional form of dress in Roman culture. The toga is a draped garment which can either form fit to the body or be worn loosely. Usually draped from a "very large, semicircular piece of undyed woolen cloth."

Statue of a togatus, ca. 14–9 b.c.; AugustanRomanMarble
H. 77 5/8 in. (1.97 m)Gift of John D. Crimmins, 1904 (04.15)

"A chiton and peplos is well represented in Classical art. In most instances, shoulder harnesses intended to rein in the sleeves crisscross in the back and loop in a raglan line at the front." This was a predominant form of draping that historically took place in the Greek culture. Usually made of light linen, this chiton softly draped, clinging to the form of the Terracotta.

Statuette of Nike (personification of victory), late 5th century B.C.; Classical Greek Terracotta.

Madame Grès was known for these "himation-like swags" made of pleated silk jersey. These finely draped gowns involved the tedious process of "pleating." This process, along with the draping process involved the "uninterrupted use of cloth" of which accentuated the soft draped look.

Evening gown, ca. 1965Madame Grès (French, 1903–1993)White silk jersey; L. at center back 44 in. (111.8 cm)Gift of Mrs. Oscar de la Renta, 1994 (1994.192.12)

SCHOOL OF TAILORED GARMENTS




16th Century "jerkin" Spanish, is a form of "tailored school." You can see the pattern of which has been cut to fit the wearer. Additionally, the form fitting shape signified "tailored." Other adornments added to this unique pattern, "padding at the shoulders, silk tufts, and metallic bobbin lace,...[laced closures]..." , also make the jerkin an apparent tailored garment.

Jerkin, ca. 1580 (16th Century) Spanish

Brown silk voided velvet trimmed

with metallic bobbin lace
L. 23 1/4 in. (59.1 cm)

Gift of Bashford Dean, 1926 (26.196)

The "Jimbaori" is created through "tailoring." The "broad lapels" similar to the "panels" from the women's jacket (below) are a clear distinction of "tailored" in addition to the high quality of workmanship in the applique process.Worn usually by a "high-ranking samurai" for protection of the elements (usually worn over armor) as well as to show "family status."

Surcoat (jimbaori), Edo period (1615–1868), 17th centuryJapanSilk, felt, metallic thread, lacquered wood
H. 38 3/8 in. (97.3 cm)Purchase, Charles and Ellen Baber Gift, 2006 (2006.95)

The panels of which makes this sleeveless jacket is a form of "tailoring." Cut pieces to create the pattern combined with decorative overlayering (central paneling) is also tailoring. This unique "... piece features a decorative composition" which includes " ... garden rock and bamboo in gold and silver threads and silks in shades of blue,... [and the] ... central panel consists of a fretwork with leaves, also woven with metallic threads. " Primarily worn by over robes by female members of the Qing dynasty's ruling family.

Woman's sleeveless jacket with bamboo, Qing dynasty (1644–1911), late 19th century ChinaTapestry-woven (kesi) silk and metallic thread
28 1/2 x 36 in. (72.4 x 91.4 cm)Gift of Florance Waterbury, 1945 (45.125.13)



A clear form the "tailoring" coupled with intricate pleating. Miyake is a master of this form of school. Painstaking pleats created through "sculptured manipulation" make these garments a form of tailoring.

"Miyake forms garments that celebrate the vitality and movement of the human body, particularly referencing Sudanese, Japanese, and American modes and overlaying them with the dictates of couture tailoring to communicate a liberated global aesthetic."

Dress, ca. 1990Issey Miyake (Japanese, born 1938) Gold and burgundy finely pleated cotton blend
Gift of Adele Lutz, 2001 (2001.711)

Clear Distinctions Between Draped and Tailored Schools

Femine Details, elaborate artistry (handpainted details), severely constructed, cut, create a tailored garment. In this Dolce and Gabanna 2oth Century evening gown, you can see the difference from the below evening gown created by Madame Gre's.

Evening dress, fall/winter 1998Dolce & Gabbana (Italian, founded 1982)Black silk duchesse satin with multicolored handpainted floral motifs and blue silk crepe lining
Gift of DOLCE & GABBANA, 1999 (1999.23)





"Vertically draped panels that run unbroken from neckline to hem, alludes to the girdling and quiver straps seen in classical renderings of Artemis." This gament has been created by use of "draping," in which intricate cuts, panels, are not used.

Evening gown, 1954Madame Grès (French, 1903–1993)White silk jersey
L. at center front (a) 55 in. (139.7 cm), (b) 39 in. (99.1 cm)Gift of Mrs. Byron C. Foy, 1956 (C.I.56.60.6a,b)

This was a very fun and exciting project. I learned alot from this exercise and although the research was intense, it was well worth it! I hope you enjoy this!